Last Sunday afternoon our family had the opportunity to go see the countryside outside Xi'an. We were driving on the South side of Xi'an near the QinLing (秦岭) mountain range. Driving along Highway S107 that parallels the mountain range we saw an old looking pagoda at the base of the mountains. Having seen lots of pagodas it didn't look like anything special, but Ashley and I both felt a strong interest to go and check it out anyway.
We told our driver to drive over to the pagoda which ended up being a challenge. We found a small country road to turn off onto from the main highway. We drove for about half a mile passing kiwi and grape vineyards and farmers driving rudimentary vehicles. We ended up at a small farmers village near the pagoda. The village looked like it had been frozen in time from a few hundred years ago. People were drying fruits and vegetables (ie corn) on the side of the road. Buildings were all made of brick with some of them being abandoned. Everyone was poor, we saw only one car in the entire village. Our driver drove through a maze of small alleys wide enough for one vehicle making our way up the hill.
We approached the top of the village where we saw the pagoda across the farm fields about a few hundred yards away. As we got out of the car villagers started coming out of their homes curious to find out who we were. Ashley and I started taking pictures of the pagoda and surroundings while the kids stayed in the car. A lady in her 60s came out of the field with some freshly picked crops and farm tools in hand. I was curious about the history of the pagoda and asked her how old it was. She shrugged and said it was old and abandoned and no one knew how old it really was. Looking around at the surroundings we saw an unorthodox looking church with crosses on the outside along with a gold Taoist temple off in the distance.
Move forward to today, less than a week from this day trip. I'm working on a talk for Hailey's baptism. Being in China, I was thinking it would be cool to incorporate a little bit of Christianity's history in China into the talk and found some interesting tidbits. Turns out the first documentation of Christianity in China can be found on a stone tablet from the 8th century known as the Nestorian Stele. This stone tablet documented the first 150 years of Christianity in China. It states that the first missionary to China were Alopen and his fellow Syraic missionaries which came from the Roman Empire and established a place of worship in Xi'an during the Tang Dynasty (635 AD). It includes a cross and text that refers to Genesis, baptism, Sunday, and the cross. When the Tang Dynasty fell in the early 10th century, the tablet was buried. In the 17th century the Nestorian Stele was rediscovered and the local Chinese were surprised to find that the "new" Christian religion that was being preached in China at the time was actually introduced more than 1,000 years earlier. This stone tablet is found today in the Xi'an Beilin Museum ust a few minutes from our home.
Digging a little deeper, I discovered that one of the places of worship for the early Nestorian Christian church was most likely the Daqin Pagoda (大秦塔) that we saw last Sunday. (Finally figured out the name of it today!) It was supposedly built in 640 AD and is a seven-story octagonal brick pagoda about 32 meters high. Over the years it was a church and then a monastery. Inside it includes depictions of Jonah at Nineveh, a nativity scene showing the birth of Christ, and Syriac graffiti (early Christian missionaries were from Syria). Other evidence the building was a church is the fact that it faces East. (Buddhist and Taoist temples and graves always face South or North.)
We were blown away that the little pagoda we saw last week could quite possibly be the oldest Christian church in China. We knew that Xi'an had lots of history, who would have thought it had that much Christian history? We want to go back to the pagoda to get a closer look and also go see the Beilin Forest Museum to check out the Nestorian Stele stone tablet. I've included links throughout the text if you are interested in learning more.
Birthplace of Taoism
Christian church
Daqin Temple
Daqin temple on the right, another
church on the left.